The real deal

My two weeks in my yoga retreat are through and it's with very mixed emotions that I write. My journey from Rishikesh to Dehradun airport saw me move from tears of hurt, to tears of joy. One thing I've got myself in to the habit of doing is when I ever feel myself feeling low at any point is finding myself an inspirational quote. In a way to act as a mantra to myself. What I do is search on line on something based on knowing what I need to do. For example when I found myself getting emotionally attached to a group of stray dogs and found myself getting overwhelmed with frustration that I couldn't stop thinking about being unable to bring them home, I needed to find something to remind me to let go.  One of my teachers from the retreat talked a lot about attachment and although I had learnt many times about the pain associated with attachment, my India trip has brought this to light. I didn't submerge myself into an ashram away from the world I knew, I had massages, ate well, had a clean room in a hotel with access to wifi to keep in touch with my family, but attachment to feelings and emotions is what I struggle to let go and the biggest thing ever holding me back. I found a quote by Buddha which just summed up everything about the way I have been feeling for years, "You only lose what you cling to". I think this says enough in itself. I never really want to have a would of unattachement and live my life like a Buddhist monk, I'll admit that, as I am a fiancé,  a carer, a friend, a sister and a daughter and I need to love them all as much as they love me. It's fair to say that, but I need to stop clinging on to hopes I have had from a teenager and understand that I'm not loosing anything if my life pans out differently over the next few years. I'm not loosing something that was never mine in the first place, if you cling to it, you believe it's yours and that's what makes not having it harder.
  Using these quotes I save them on my phone or write it on a pad which I leave by the side of my bed as a small reminder every time to look. Maybe at times I'm not feeling anything I particular but it will remind me, that times are positive anytime, no matter how world the low seems at any time.
  Leaving Rishikesh I started again to think about the next few days and the travelling involved, and how much I would love to stay to watch my friends complete their teacher training, more time enjoying the beauty of the environment or spending more time listening to my teachers talk about teaching, purifying the mind, desires and reeling off Sanskrit that is set into their minds. I needed to remind myself about saying goodbye and I found something again which needs no explanation "I'm lucky enough to have something that is so hard saying goodbye to" I know how lucky I have been for this experience in so many ways. It was all at my own material expense that I could afford to get here, but others lives have had to change while I'm gone for that short period of time. If only I had this mantra 4 weeks ago saying goodbye to Matt at the airport, as we kissed each other for the last time before I got my flight.
 I booked my retreat through a website linking me to teacher trainings and retreats in India. I found Kaivailya Yoga and for some reason this appealed to me more than any of the others. (Maybe it was the pictures taken on the banks of the Ganges with mountains in the background, but when I started to read more and visited the direct website I knew). I wasn't particularly wanting anything focusing on Ashtanga, for a while I've been looking to learning different perspectives and grow my knowledge in many ways to be able to offer more to my students who can't do a practice without props, who struggle with getting into poses in a breath and who want to be worked at a pace which suits them. As my own practice develops over the years I feel physically yes my body is opening up/ getting stronger, and yes I have been significantly different since doing my yoga intensive last year, but I need to apply these philosophies into my everyday life, which working the hours I do has always been the struggle. With the physical practice I do, I can still get tired and worked up.  Kaivailya Yoga has taught me a whole new aspect to inter grating yoga into my life. The asana practice was Hatha and we did classes twice a day with two very different teachers. Sometimes there is certain stigma related to certain practices of yoga if you practice a different style and many people who practice Ashtanga may perceive Hatha as boring or slow. Ashtanga can be associated for more class A type people who like to be busy, active and fully engaged physically and mentally, which as you may know suits me well, and I will admit if ell into the perception that Hatha was, do I dare say, a little boring. Boy did these teachers prove me wrong. My morning asana teacher was so particular to detail there was never any shortcuts, his attention to detail just taking our time getting into a pose was amazing (although at the time so hard and I may have thought otherwise) this taught me to breathe, work through it and continue to hold until someone else told me to come out. In comparison when I self practice Mysore Ashtanga I hold for five breaths which is easier to meditate through as there is more of a recognizable goal, and there can be ops invite reinforcement the closer you get to the fifth breath. The evening teacher was so different but again I would love in many different ways. He mixed up his teaching style often, he gave good adjustments and explained how we can help others in our practices, and focused on key areas ( hip opening, core work etc) He started each class nearly the same each day, with simple sitting tasks, but they really focused us in ready for the practice. He sang a mantra and beginning and end of class, and listening was always one of my favourite times as he had such a peaceful voice. I would say as a teacher his style would be more like my own. Either way at the end of the day over dinner we would talk about the things we learnt and how teachers so would say things. Their expressions, pronunciation and overall adjustments (for example one had a habit of flicking your limbs to make you straighten them) would often make us giggle but never did we come out saying a class was bad.
  One shock to the system was doing yogic cleansing techniques, a practiced talked about amongst my yoga fiends but rarely have I met any that follow it through. The thought of it overwhelming, but experiences I am glad I can say I participated should anyone ever come to me to seek further guidance and advice, I at least have some knowledge and where to lead them. Experiences maybe best not shared in this post but in memories with my friends on the course.
  The best focus for me was by far the pranayama and meditation. Pranayama has been an interest of mine for a while,and I have tried to practice alone but often teachers throw a few techniques into classes, which I thought was cool, but never did I have teacher really take time to explain each one in such detail, and prepare us all so well, ask us for our experiences during the practice. It was also the same with mediation. So far I've only ever taken guided mediation through online sources, but it was hard to find stuff you like, the quality was bad and there are only so many cheesy washy washy 'mediation' soundtracks you can listen to. Little did I realize just how many different styles of mediation there is, and it was interesting to compare how each one have different results for different people. Some people found any vocalization hard and worked better with silent mediations, and others couldn't concentrate her, so needed to produce sound to focus in on the vibration and the rhythm. These classes were led by the program director Amit. I really liked Amit, he spent many hours with me in the afternoons as he took me to see the sights of Rishikesh, he is genuine and generous. He explained that he always wanted a course that delivered quality versus getting in a larger quantity of people and not having that time to get to know people. When we reeked we talked about India, mediation and overall life. I found out he worked in the finance world in India, working long hours with stress and little time for himself. He started yoga after and injury and loves life now in Rishikesh, you can tell even without knowing him well. He hopes and so do I, that one day he will have an ashram with a location on the banks of the river further away from the town, bringing even more peace. Everything Amit said always made sense. If he ever stemmed deeper into yoga philosophy he could some up a lot in just a few sentences. I hope one day he also to develops a program for people returning to his retardants and trainings to help guide us further and deeper once we've implemented the first stages of his advice.
  I find important to also talk about one other teacher at Kaivalya yoga. He was the philosophy teacher (who also taught the teacher trainees anatomy). Being on the more laid back retreat the philosophy class was optional for myself, but I am so glad I took time to go. Mehesh was amazing at. Knowing the yoga sutra's, Bhagaved Gita and Hatha yoga prapritaika texts off by heart. He would speak with passion and would explain things as they were written. He told us the roots and told us the ultimate yogi. His knowledge was exceptional and I have never seen anyone talk with such passion. He guided me with a small consultation in Ayruvada and there is only one thing I am sad about, and that is that I didn't get to spend more time with him. My little notebook was full of expression and quotes from the texts, but also those of Mehesh's own,and one day I believe I will be using these as mantra's to get me through some tougher days. I fully believe and hope that great things come to Mehesh and that he receives all the acknowledgement of his exceptional teaching efforts in the very near future.
 Hopefully after my blogs in Rishikesh you feel the passion and importance this small little part of the world has had in my life, and it's fair to say I definitely got the real deal.

Feelings from Rishikesh

I'm now writing my blog from Rishikesh. A town In the state of Uttarakhand, which is at the base hills of the Himalayas. I found Rishikesh by simply doing an online search for Yoga retreats or teacher training  and realizing so many places were running programs in yoga in this particular area. I researched more to find that Rishikesh is famous for its yoga links and is a very holy and spiritual city for many Hindu's. It lines the banks of the Ganges that run straight down from the mountains and the water of the river is pure and clear. There are temples everywhere and ashrams are a prominent part of the build up, particularly in the area I am staying in. Many people visit Rishikesh for extended periods of time, so ashrams are like small communities with mini apartments for people to stay and deepen their yoga practice. Each ashrams usually has a guru which people aspire to. I'm only on a baby trip. 2 weeks. Now if you know me this is a big jump. Very rarely do I ever go anywhere and stay in the same place for longer than a few days. I'm constantly on the move trying to get  out and see sights upon sights upon sights. Being so close to the mountains this could be ample time, but to be honest, here I'm taking it easy and just letting my days unfold as it is. I make sure I go for at least a small stroll to to remind myself of the wonderful environment which is around. Now don't get me wrong I'm amongst civilization, not quite living amongst just the birds and the bees, but beyond the hustle and bustle there is peace as you look out to the blue water separating the town, and running away from mountains. When I walk my pace is slow,and I mull the shops looking for books, and things I could all use for my yoga practice and teaching. I get chai or a fresh juice and often just sit and read or continue to walk. I often find time in my afternoons to take rest in my room and my eyes fall closed for 30 minutes or so.  I am here on a retreat where I am deepening my yoga beyond the physical/asana practice. Until lunch my mornings are a fabulous build up of learning postures, pranayama (breathing techniques) meditation and philosophy. I then have lunch and then have time to myself or my teacher takes me out to the sights. I return in time for another asana practice at sunset and then dinner. Early nights are being fully taken advantage of.

Rishikesh is by far the most enriching place I have visited so far. I've been to visit the ashram that the Beatles visited in the past, which is now derelict which is a shame as it covers so many acres of land, and there are some great stories to help set the scene. I've visited waterfalls and temples on top of mountains to grab the view. I have also attended a ceremony that takes place every evening at sunset on the banks of the Ganges, where a local guru leads a chanting concert and people offering a gift to the waters by lighting an incense embedded in flowers, help together in a banana leaf to help it float. Unfortunately as my camera decided to die on me at the very worst moment you will have to take my word how beautiful it was. It was an interesting event where I witnessed people submerging themselves into the chants, reaching for the lanterns and flames to feel the heat and try to take the energy, and become very overwhelmed with emotions in the presence of this man. People from India, and people abroad, in fact people of many shapes, and sizes, accept reserved old me, who just took time to observe and understand.

Another thing taking up a significant amount of my time is caring for a group of small puppies outside my hotel. Unfortunately the day before I arrived one puppy was run over and spent the past 24 hours yelping in pain. I am currently the only one out of my group not on teacher training meaning I get more free time in the afternoon so offered to take him to the vet. From here on I've been totally engaged and fixated with these pups, instantly thinking about bringing this injured one home, and how to do it. I've been fascinated with observing how the pack works, and how they fight for survival. I've been feeding them, grooming them and doing everything I can to keep them strong. I stroke as much as I can to give them love although they have been ridden in flea, ticks and other health concerns. I mostly observe the Indians around me, knowing many of them wonder why I waste my time. I know keeping the puppies alive to them just takes up their streets and that they know more puppies will be along again. Some people have been great and join me when I spend time with the pups and they chat with me and tell me what they have observed in them while I was busy. At times I've even got overwhelmed with not being able to do more, and also at myself for not just allowing what will be will be. In a way this has been a massive self realization on my own behaviour. I feel while doing a whole load of meditation and getting so much deeper into yoga philosophy I am avoiding trying to delve deeper into my own emotions. My life Is that I worry about so much, and for a moment I was away from work and life back home ( saving for a house, future, and being the best for my family) and it was ample opportunity to not worry but enjoy my environment and having time to myself, that I instantly started finding something. Not even to control but I would say to fixate. I can mediate for a while but come out worrying about the dogs. I know I can't change the way it is here and the way these animals are treated, but I can't bare to see pain. I can't bare to see anything suffer and if I see it I feel it. It's made me analyze the way am am with people at work, in my family and even the general population in Toronto. I get upset and angry for others, even when problems are not my own, and I take them home and luckily I have a partner who listens and tells me to relax but I don't. I simply stop talking about it and just think it over and over. I struggle to let things go, and I know even leaving India just these little pups will play on my mind. I do think too much about the future, know I do, get frustrated that I do, and work too hard trying to focus on now. Now I know you're thinking that I'm sounding very analytical over a group of pups, but it's not just them but I think my whole experience in India. My experience right now, of being in one place, yes surrounded people I have met only last week, but really with only me that knows me, knows my demons and can only know what I need to change in my life.

Tantalizing the Senses

In my last post I mentioned how India can at times be a very overwhelming sensory overload. Here's my guide to preparing your body for travel in India!

Smell - India is full of smells good,  bad and just plain right ugly! One moment you can be walking down a street wondering where the fabulous spice smell and food is coming from, drawing you closer to a potential restaurant of choice, until you get closer and the smell of deep frier fat for all the fried snack stalls that line the streets or beam from your hopeful eatery, which can instantly make you gag! If you choose to continue to walk further and are not careful enough to notice you'll be standing next to sewers, garbage or the general waste on the street which starts to rot! If your quick enough you remember not to try and look where it's coming from, because really there is no point, it will not go away! You should always just keep walking because sooner or later you'll pass someones shop, home (or side pile of items they are selling lined on the street itself) where they are burning not to just one, but several incense sticks! Now if you like the smell of sandalwood this can potentially work in your favor, if not just hope that person has opted for a more fruity flavor! Eventually you end up getting into local transport by bike or auto-rickshaws that move so quickly smells whizz past you too quickly to recognize! Then back to your hotel/guesthouse, where the options are endless, but there is always something! 

Sight- In India, remain switched on at all times! Absorb the colours and contrast, from house to house, market to market, yellow rickshaws, green rickshaws and blue! Observe the trees and what they add to the beautiful backdrop, but try to focus your gaze to filter our the power cables, that are in the most bizarre places. Know who you can hold eye contact with and who you can't, don't spend time trying to figure out the serious faces of the elderly ladies, the smirks of the young men or the laughter from the children, just know it will happen and what their faces read may not be their full thoughts! Look out of the transport as this is when you'll learn the most as you pass places you never imagined were possible or observe scenarios only possible in India! At night, should you choose to walk In the dark, allow your other sense take over, as you could end up in a sticky situation involving a cow sitting in the street. But one thing is for sure never open your eyes for too long as dirt and dust are everywhere and who knows when the wind will choose to blow some up in your face and give you an eyeful!

Taste - Be prepared to keep an open mind for all you eat! Spice for breakfast isn't as bad as it seems! Sometimes they are clever enough to avoid garlic and onions for early morning food so you won't stink for so much of the day! Note that if you ever fall sick, carry an emergency supply of plain bland food, because expect that whenever you just want something to settle the stomach is when you are stuck in the only town or train station with fast food outlets with either fried foods, curry or high sugar content, so maybe skipping dinner is the better option than trying to fight keep something down! Also mints are essential, especially if you're not into the Indian fennel seed mouth fresheners! What ever happens you'll find a curry just right for your taste, and the taste is definitely improved with the use of your fingers, although rice dishes will challenge your manipulation skills and co-ordination, but at times make it well more worth it! 

Sound - If you've never been to India, one thing you probably know is that is noisy! You can find peace and tranquility in certain places but know if there's a road there will be noise! Combine the sound of a horn, none stop, dogs barking, men talking very loudly, bells ringing, chants from Temples, so it's hard to focus! In fact this is the hardest sense to ever relax in India, even in a small town or when taking time for your meditation know it will be disturbed, either by fruits falling, or insects buzzing very very close by. Most importantly, practice meditation because nothing goes right through you more than the sound of the high pitched horn constantly close to your ear, no matter where you are walking, or what transport you take on the road, it's there, it's constant and it's annoying!

Touch- India is the place to come if want to improve your body awareness! Never get comfortable in your shoes, but feel temperatures under your feet as you walk and compare the slates, contrete and marbel of all the different temples you visit! Be ok with feeling dirt, and not having a place to wash off when you need it! Feel the burning sand under feet, but don't expect to dodge broken coral it shells on the beach, but bottles, food wrappers and more! Be prepared to breath as you try to retrieve or buy something and stand in what you would assume could form into a queue, but instead allow your body to be shoved side to side, prodded and poked by those around. Walk down a street and know you will be expected to move otherwise your personal space is no more! Be prepared for people to enter that space as they touch your forehead to bless you with a dusty due or wet wet paint, and feel the cold on your head! Be prepared for you temperature to fluctuate and skin to burn unless you stay shaded safely from the powerful sun!

From mainland, to sea, to mountains.

From mainland to sea to mountains! My second week in South India is through and it was more crazy than the last. This involved some hard travelling with only single nights in hotels, sandwiched with overnight trains. In my life I have seen a good proportion of countries offering variety and excitement to my life, but I would never call myself a hardcore backpacker. I usually stay in a base for long periods of time, and use my weekends to see new sights in the country which I am staying, and use the week to learn more of the locals way, and observe how children learn and adults work, always experiences  I cherish.That said I have also backpacked moving from hostel or hotel, trying to get in as much of the sites as I can. This takes a toll on the system and before I started to write my new blog post I needed to give myself some time. Focus myself away from the exhaustion and find the positives in why I chose to do what I did. Take a breath and sit back appreciate what just happened learned the the negativity from an experience or a place i came across which is only a chance to understand the differences, and prevent the comparison of places I know or things I've seen before.
 Since the Tiger and Elephant reserve in Perrier we went from Madurai, Mysore, Hampii and  North Goa. Part of me wonders if my exhaustion comes from the over simulation and drastic change from place to place. It was like being in different worlds and the nervous system couldn't adapt quick enough.
In Madurai we visited the Gandhi museum and then a pretty large temple ( and when I say large I mean 2-3 hours to look around). This was the main site in Madurai. It can also be known as the city which doesn't sleep, and if you know of the North American city with the same nickname, imagine New Yorks Manhatten with cows, garbage everywhere, stray dogs, autorickshaws, motor bikes, extreme heat and lots of unorganized roads junctions, you have your Indian version. This gave a chance to simply wonder the streets, look around in some shops, get drawn in to look at the beautiful silks hanging in shop windows and have some man convince us to buy saree's. The weather was so hot and sticky so plenty of time was spent in our air conditioned hotel to recompose before heading out again. This was a time we ventured out into town to find our own meals, local style. Usually we were having our guide take us to pretty respectable tourist places, with the price for food being between $5-7 dollars but he would claim that he had to take us to places he knew of with good reputations for the sensitive travellers stomach. We were very stoked to actually find 2 places, one for breakfast and one for dinner and our stomachs stayed in tact and we thankfully avoided a bout of the famous Delhi belly. The food was amazing and was less than a dollar for 2 courses. We were able to eat off of the given banana leaf but some people still needed a spoon, versus full out eating with fingers. Of course the biggest concern was being the local entertainment. I swear men came in from the street to watch a group of five young white women eat so much food. Fact is you get pretty used to people staring at you everywhere, and even laughing for time to time. You end up giving 5-10 minutes a day having your picture taken with people, but having people crowd around you, and take time out of their own day to watch some people eat, is slightly weird.
  On to Mysore, a place I was very excited for. Mysore is where Ashtanga yoga originates from and this is were many of my teachers go for training. I actually practice Mysore yoga in Toronto where I go to self practice. I follow through the sequence myself in my own pace and a teacher is there to assist me or guide me as I need. Mysore is then famous globally for its yoga connections and a place I hear many people talk about. Originally I had planned to come to Mysore to train for the whole month in the main shala. Here you must apply exactly four months before arrival. A deadline I missed as my plans to leave we're not even final. Therefore I was not able to go through with the program. With research I decided to go somewhere else for my yoga retreat, however when I came across a tour going through Mysore, I wanted to go. Mysore was the most modern city I visited by miles. The shops were cool, there were colleges and universities everywhere, the men wore jeans instead of sarongs and there seemed to be some sort of order to the roads (for Indian standard anyway). We walked and wondered and found a place to get some henna. I had actually bought henna for someone else to do, but I fascinated how this guy could create and do a beautifully intrinsic design so quickly. Since I've had plenty of compliments for my henna foot, and I'm sad already that it has started to fade. We visited the Mysore palace which was frustratingly busy as it was a public holiday, it was beautifully full with so many colours and decor. Unfortunately pictures were banned and I didn't want to risk taking any to share with you as we had already had to deal with a security guard on a power strike when my friend made the mistake of taking one.
Of course being in Mysore I had to do a yoga class. I did some research before I arrived and sent a few Emails as I didn't want to waste any time while travelling trying to research then find I missed my opportunity. I woke bright and early to get an auto-rickshaw to the opposite side of the city to head to Mystic School Mysore. A beautiful little shala, in a lovely peaceful area of town. It was obviously the hood for yoga studios and students. The place itself was very very well kept, with accommodation and a hot tub, sauna and cafe upstairs. It runs an intensive program and teacher training but I was obviously there out of season as there was only 3 people in the class. I did my self practice which felt good as it had been a few days since I had chance to practice ( as I had been sharing hotel rooms and on overnight trains). There was a few times the teacher called at me from the other side of the room, something that never is easy to comprehend, or not feel embarrassed about. First was for my 3 Surynamasker B. Usually I practice 5 of A version,and 3 of B. Without questioning I did as he said and boy I felt exhausted already. I never did question it at the end why, but went off to do my own research afterwards. Throughout the practice I felt nervous at points as I feared the teacher may try to push me too deep into any pose as he didn't know my practice or my body at all. But he was reasonable and at times I thought maybe I could have gone a it  further, but didn't suggest anything as it had been such a while since a full practice was done.
After the class I felt wonderful and the air outside was still cool enough for me to take a stroll, get some bananas and chai before getting a tuctuc home. It was actually one of my most expensive mornings in India with the class cost being $10, and the transport taking me so far, but very well worth it.
  Afterwards we went to  Mysore mountain, where we walked up 1000 steps, with 50% being deep and hard. It had wonderful views of the city, and half way up there was a small temple in a cave where a man sat and chanted with a soft singing voice and we were welcomed in to sit and just listen. There was no pressure and he gave us some welcoming food (hard candy like grits). He spoke with me bout yoga and wished me happy travels. Sometimes it's these little peaceful moments that makes me understand why so many people love India. There was a huge Bull monument and then onwards some more to the top for even more views and another temple, which didn't take us long to walk around. It was a windy tuctuc ride down, but made to be every authentic with some fun Hindi music in the background.

After another night train we moved onto Hampii. I was looking forward to Hampii more than anything as I had had a couple of friends recommend it to me. It's ancient ruins amongst some amazing bouldering hills. The scenery was like something out of the dry Jurassic era. Unfortunately I came down very sick in Hampii and was bed bound for 20 hours of it. I'll save you the details but a dark room and lying horizontal was all I could do, while everyone else, visited a temple on a hill for an amazing sunset :-( Knowing I needed some more rest I was determined to do some sight seeing so couldn't keep myself still any longer. We crossed the river, on a very small rickety boat and hired a driver to take us to the sights. As magical as it was we did as much as we could, but the weather was 43 degrees and there was little shade to find so I took pictures and would sit in shade as soon as possible instead of taking time to read up on anything. Although feeling gross I'm glad I did get out, it's amazing to see just all the effort that was put in thousands of years ago, and that everything was built with so much meaning.

By the time the night train for Goa came around. I had managed to get by ok, I tried eating but a few mouthfuls of plain rice was all I could manage. The night train was great as I slept well and we were the last stop so had no rush on arrival. I woke ready for breakfast and feeling refreshed at last. Driving to our location in North Goa our guide told us North Goa is a famous destination location for party goers! Although a party is what the other girls were after and please don't get me wrong I'm inclined to attend many myself, it was the complete opposite of what I was looking for anyhow. The rest of the girls by this point were now sick, leaving only two of us to hit the beach, and unfortunately I was pretty disappointed. I had heard Goa was wonderful, but these descriptions were more than likely of South Goa. All I can say, the atmosphere was the same as a cheap holiday in Spain or Greece, the beach was extremely dirty and I was scared I would tred on a broken bottle, and we couldn't get more than 3 minutes without trying to be sold something. Feeling no where near relaxed we headed back to the hotel for a swim and with the others still sick, a quiet dinner for me and some clothes washing in the bedroom. So disappointed with my first day I managed to get on a boat tour the second day to Monkey Island which provided the opportunity to snorkel. I love snorkelling and could do for several hours if given the chance. It was an early start and luckily we saw several dolphins swimming close to shore for feeding. Yes, I was happy, nature again, although somewhat disappointed with the driver trying to get way too close in their territory. When we snorkelled I was in my element and would have stayed much longer but was rushed back to the boat. I was upset to found they rushed me, as they wanted to start fishing. Everyone sat around the boat with their fishing wires waiting for the beautiful innocent fish I was just enjoying to latch on and pull up for the trophy photo. I of course didn't participate and spent time taking pictures of the scenery. I'll admit I'm no vegetarian, but I stopped eating fish after Mauritius as I just can't bare to think of the suffering a fish experiences when it is caught. I know and appreciate that fishing is also a staple part of some cultures diet, but for me it was a choice a made a few years ago, and never preach to anyone and explain why I don't eat fish unless they ask.
  I finished up in Goa having a meal with some traditional music and dancing in a hotel. I was pulled up to have a dance and tried my best at moving my hips so quickly to the beat. I don't think I did too bad, but would have felt better in some fancy jingling outfit to swish around next to the professional dancer.
  It was an early start to Goa airport and I was totally wiped and had to just focus on getting myself to Rishikesh knowing everything would be ok. It was a few hours travelling, flying in to Mumbai and waiting a few hours before getting to Dehradun. Rishikesh is a famous holy city many people in India travel to for pilgrimage but also famous for the travelling yogi. It is set in the base of the Himalayan mountains, and the moment I stepped off the plane and started to talk with my taxi driver and look at the surroundings I knew Rishikesh will be my favourite place in India so far.
 Watch this space to see if that is true.

Yoga under the mango tree

 As it takes me a few days to write I think you should all assume I'm having a wonderful time. My first few says were in Varkala, a nice plain sort of beach coast with the beautiful Indian Ocean waving in to shore. Some of you may know I used to live on a small island called Mauritius where most days were spent swimming in this sea. So the moment I took my steps back into the Indian Ocean a sense of overwhelming gratitude came over me. Fighting the warm waves to get deeper for a swim I was totally engrossed in the moment, that moment in time nothing else mattered, just me making my way into the wonderful water. As I pleasantly lied back floating I thought of the people I would like there with me, what they would say, what they would be doing. Then again silence, I float, I look to the clear blue sky and feel the waves splashing onto me.
That's literally my free time in Varkala, apart from trying to learn this bartering thing so I can apparently feel the satisfaction of grabbing something for near to 50% cheaper than quoted. I still haven't effectively learnt the skills. I can't help but blame these people for trying to sell at the price they do, I can't help but think of their perception of us foreigners, pretending we don't have the money to spare yet many wouldn't think twice at the cocktail they order two-three times a night. I think of their homes, their family and how many hours spent working in a day just to lead a somewhat simple life. Will they ever afford to travel to Canada, do they even want to? But this is the cycle of life, do these people really know what happiness means, I predict more often than not, they are happier than the people of the West seeking the same. While in Varkala our guide reminded us often of the tourism in Varkala, and this is noted by the woman walking around in short skirts and strappy tops, something I kept well away from my suitcase as I predicted this would nevertheless be acceptable at any point in my time in India, and I was more than happy to respect that, but packed two workout tops for my retreat at the end of my trip.
Around there were posters for yoga, lots of yoga, early morning at sunrise and late afternoon for sunset. There seems to be so many to choose from that deciding where to go is hard. I walk past a place saying the morning has Mysore style Ashtanga yoga, yes, I go in. Unfortunately I find that the teacher is away but I'm more than welcome to attend the Hatha class instead. Not convinced I leave wondering if I should just go to the one next to my hotel with the pictures of the very impressive yoga poses by the male teacher. (In fact all posters for yoga were of male practitioners). Over dinner my guide informs me that the yoga is advertised to tourists and not to expect much from the classes, but he would enquire into somewhere I would get a good experience, knowing I enjoy a rather vigorous practice he asks around. That said I was more than happy to delve into new realms which will be happening on my retreat in few weeks anyway. Done, he speaks with people in the hotel and they have found me something in a sivananda yoga shala. I quickly do my research into the practice before I get my yoga clothes ready before I sleep ready for a quick exit in the morning. As we approached the building it was in a quiet little spot set back from the road and amongst the trees. I arrive to find a group of men in traditional dress meditating and walk in to find some Westerners quietly sitting around reading and then all of a sudden I get nervous! Is this a place where they all strictly follow the yogic way of life, and in I walk with my racer back top with shoulders bare as they all all modestly covering shoulders and legs! I realize people are on a teacher training and they have been here for a while, and then I worry the pace will be too fast, or the pose variations will be too different from Ashtanga! A great insight and reminder of the way my new students feel when walking into a class! I then get adjusted, I worry is it because I'm wrong, or just she wants to make sure I get the support I need for my first class! Again another healthy reminder for a yoga teacher! The pace is great, starts with breathing, followed by savasana, sun salutations then savasana, inversions then Savasana..... I like this practice! Rest rest rest :-)
  One thing I had to get used to was practicing outside. The class was on a rooftop terrace and the sound of the trees rustling and birds tweeting continued to remind me I was in India, especially the bugs. Oh lots of bugs, and there is only one level full rest I could allow myself to go into hearing the sound of Mosquitos buzzing by my ear, certain things are ok, but there are certain creatures I'd prefer not to land on me. Overall the practice was great, although my body tired and worn from travelling, but gentle and smooth enough to ease into it and I'd be more than happy to do this again.
  After we moved on to the Kerala backwaters where we had a home stay staying  with a local family and eating the local cuisine. The backwaters are beautiful and calm and  our host offered to treat it as home. That said without a boat there isn't a whole lot to do, so with several hours to spare I relax in the hammock under the coconut tree, then decide to get my yoga mat out. While here I have been trying to do my self practice early so it doesn't feed into the days activities and because it's cooler ( because practicing in temps of +40 isn't exactly the healthiest). From the hammock I noticed the perfect spot, right next to the river under the Mango tree. I start gently stretching and moving my body before starting my Mysore practice. My body still needs things to be slow, and I was waiting for the little old lady hosting to stop watching me. However as she leaves her husband comes out and watches my Sun salutations then tells me I'm doing them wrong. He then asks to show me the right way, by which point I realize he is showing me the Sivanda way! We talk a little and I find it very cool that two people more the 5 generations apart can talk about their passion and make a connection over learning from one another. Although I did have to laugh when he told me two things, that it's very important not to talk, (but he did start talking to me while I began my practice), and also very important to close the eyes. Which opened up discussion as in my practice we have a drishti, a gazing point, but looking back to Sivananda the day before we closed our eyes a lot, even in headstand, which was so strange for me, so I give my reasonings for the Ashtanga drishti. Eventually he went and I continued my practice while the quiet boats passed by! The following morning I was up bright and early, went back to the same spot and this day had good practice, I worked harder, although had to stop several times to blow off/ brush off some rather big bugs! Patience has been a virtue getting used to these bugs, and ahimsa is in play!
Yoga so far has been a good balance to my holiday as I can take it at my leisure and not worry about getting to work or how the day unfolds, so I fully reap the benefits of my savasana, no matter if I'm on a balcony under the mango trees, in a garden under the coconut tree or on a dirt track under the jack fruit tree.
  My time in India after the first week has involved enjoying lots of food, tea, hot weather, shopping, swimming, walking, making friends, hiking in the jungle, spotting wildlife, and bathing elephants, and yes I tried for my yoga pose on the back :-)